Couchsurfing in Iran

How does it feel to cross Iran alone as a woman. Also my first experience with Couchsurfing.

Why I did it?

As a Textile designer, I got a lot of inspirations from Persian mosque. I always dream to see those beautiful pattern with my own eyes.  One day, friend found promoted ticket from Bangkok to Iran for just $197 (round trip), so I brought it. Unfortunately, that friend cancelled the trip after I already booked my ticket. I’ve never thought I would have started my solo travel life in Iran. But with the money I save for my travel, it would be a waste to not going, and it seems to be a challenging exciting beginning. I had to find the way to go through it. Knowledge is the way. So I researched as much as I can.

When searching, other problem came up. Hostel in Iran is about $15/night for 1 bed in a dorm and it has to be booked through email with so litter photos and information to preview.  That is expensive for me, plus it takes long time to make a reservation. After reading articles from backpackers that already travelled Iran saying how’s safe the country is, I decided to try couch-surfing for the 1st time. The girl I’ve been chatting with make me feel quite secure, so I took the risk. From what I read on the internet, I had a strong believe in this country. I told myself to forget all stereotype and just go.

_Me in Maranjab desert, taken by a taxi driver who don’t know a single English words. Wait for the story of how we both came here for the 1st time with no signal phone.

Before getting there

I planed to catch some travellers from my flight, so I will not be alone. It sounded like a good plan until I got into the plane. I was the only person on the whole row. Looking around, I only see middle-east man faces, no woman at all. I tried to calm down and finally fell asleep.

Can you image to wake up with a stranger man touching your hand, on a plane to Iran. I totally shocked. I asked him to leave intensely. Then I spent my last 5h thinking about my stupid decision. What if something happens and I will not see my family anymore…

I did feel regret at this time.

After 10 hours, I arrived Imam Khomeini Airport at 11.40 pm. I jumped into all backpackers I saw and found out they all just transit there. I was shaking and terrifying looking all around. Well, I only see beautiful and trendy Iranians but I couldn’t calm enough to take photos of them. Finally, I was lucky enough to meet 2 guys from Thailand and I knew I have to stick with them. Thank God, they are lovely and so kind to me. We shared taxi, contacts and even planed to visit some places together.

_The backs of my 2 life-savers Tee and Chao at the modern Imam Khomeini International Airport

How did it feel to couch surf from North to South ?

• Tehran

After Tee and Chao left to their hostel, I continued 10 kilimeters more to my host's place. The taxi driver wasn’t so honest and charged me 50,000 rial more than what was agreed. With my fighting mode on, I was aggressive about that, but my host came and calmed me down.

My 1st host ever – the beautiful sporty Samira at our breakfast buffet in Tehran

The moment I went to the house with Samira, everything started to be amazing. She lives with her sister and brother. They are opened-mind and friendly, also very good at English. Samira also gave her room while she slept in the living room. What a kindness!

Samira's living room

My ‘own’ colourful room in Tehran

They offered me tea, cake, and amazing stories about Iran before the Islamic Revolution. They showed me photos of their last queen, Iranian hiphop music 40 years ago and so much more.

Me and Foozhan, taken by her boyfriend. A totally different world inside the house.

• Esfahan

Fearlessly, I used bus to cross Iran and stayed in couchsurfing almost of the time. I met Zohre in Esfahan (Isfahan). Her uncle who doesn’t know a single word in English picked me up in a bus station 40km away from their home. I was waiting in front of Esfahan bus station, a handsome lovely man came and just say ‘Zohra’ – my 2nd host’s name, I smiled, knowing exactly who I need to follow. How incredible the way human can connect with each other!

The family treated me like a princess. I had my own room, breakfast ready whenever I woke up. They cooked for me, brought me to city central everyday. They also got me local-price ticket, amazing lunches and the best cherry wine I’ve tasted (*alcohol is not allowed in Iran as it’s an Islamic country) Zohre brought four of her cousins, her male classmate (they are not allow to say male friend) and his cousin. They all walked with me around the city and shared so much thoughts about the world today.

‘I’m sorry that you have to dress like this when visiting Iran. I also feel sorry for the women in our country, they don’t have much choice here’ – said by my 1st male Iranian friend, Erfan.

The world I saw here is different with the one media fools us. After that, I learned more about the need of getting out to see the world and the difficulties of our non-1st world countries. I could feel their anger and wander-ness so intense and so similar to what I experiences in other countries. We are really just male and female human, individually the same.

• Shiraz

In the last city in south Iran – Shiraz, I met Sheida. She is a 20-year-old WOMAN with so much pain and passion in life. We drunk on the street, we danced on the rooftop freely all night long, we shared love and passion about life. That girl changed my way to feel life. And the hug of her mother, who I only shared eye contact with, is full of love that I make me felt so home in a far land country. Part of my heart stay there forever. The cinematic view when I sat on the car at night, seeing she kissing her boyfriend deeply, and the silhouette of her dancing traditional Persian dance under the moon are unforgettable. I enjoyed those moments too much and even forget to take photo.

My last night in Shiraz with Sheida and her friend

There are more people I met on the road, the kindest taxi driver, a lovely museum director, an old man caring so much about Vietnam war, the beautiful woman who randomly gave me a ring in the mosque, the waiter who sent me a fresh aromatic tea bag to bring back home. And so much more, with so many stories. All I can say in the end is despite all the fear I had, Iran is a breath-taking country in terms of Arts, History and People that I definitely come back and stay for at least 6 months.

I have much more photos of them in my facebook and instagram